12/17/2022 0 Comments Hans karlsson adze![]() Hand forged from Swedish Uddeholm steel, Arne SS1672 which is formulated for toughness and holding a long-lasting sharp edge.Īsh or elm handle made from trees grown just outside Hans Karlsson's home town of Motala, Sweden, 230mm (9") long, lightly oiled. Lighter and smaller head than most hand adzes, perfect for smaller bowls, larger spoons and ladles.Ĭutting edge is approx 35-40mm (1 3/8"- 1 1/2") from corner to corner with a main external bevel and a smaller internal bevel, ground to aprox. In Sweden they call this a Tjackelyxa Kort Skaft Rare short handled adze from Swedish tool makers Hans Karlsson Klensmide AB. Demand has outpaced to small makers as more folks get into woodworking. Looked but didn't find any Adze for sale to guide me. View all the blog posts about the construction of this bowl.Hope this can go here, not sure what sale forum it would go into. I like the neo-primitivism but to be honest, I just couldn't get my tools any deeper into the bowl and the thought of going back and taking another half inch off the outside made my head hurt. ![]() It's easier to get a table at Le Cirque.Ĩ) Its thick and heavy. That all being said, I got my adzes for $30 and an outer bevel adze made by someone like Swedish Hans Karlsson will set you back $300 (and you'll be on a waiting list two years long). Outer (or combo) bevel adzes tend to exit the wood with the arc of the swing so you don't just bury the tip in the wood and have to leverage it out. Inner bevel adzes tend to agressively cut into the wood. However, design wise they are all inner bevel tools, meaning that the blade is ground on the inside face of the adze instead of the outside. I got a bargain on adzes from a Bulgarian Etsy site named Happy Tools, and they are very well made. Two schools of thought on this subject also but I'm convinced that I would have had more stability carving the inside first.ħ) I used good, but not great tools. Again this may not be a mistake but it was definitely driven by macho-ego.Ħ) I carved the outside first. Theres two different schools of thought on this subject and frankly I really don't know if this was a mistake or not.ĥ) Apart from chainsawing my blank and cheating with a dremel to do the butterfly keys (since the drying bowl was splitting I didn't want to shatter the bowl with more manual carving) I did everything the old fashioned way by chopping. This led to radically different rates of contraction during drying and subsequent splitting.ģ) I chose a deep square proportion which is much more agressive than the gentle swing arc of an adze (a shaped axe head).Ĥ) I carved the blank with bark up. Also that i made every mistake in the book as follows:ġ) I picked oak which is the hardest and most stringy-surly commonly found wood in New England.Ģ) I cut my blank near the outside of the tree to past the center. My big takeaway is that hacking away at a piece of wood using stone age concepts upgraded to the iron age is fun and cathartic and unless you're ambidexterous, gives you one Incredible Hulk arm. The final treatment was a light sanding (preserving the tool marks which I like) and a couple of coats of tung oil. ![]() I've read that there's a good 25% chance that a bowl will split because wood is unpredictable and $#!+ happens. To be honest I wouldnt really recommend getting more than one dedicated carving axe. Ive had that axe for three years and have carved hundreds of spoons and dozens of bowls with it. bow ties or dutchmen) and then do some filling with cyanoacrylate glue (crazy glue or zap-a-gap) mixed with sawdust. Ive been using the Hans Karlsson axe, alongside my main carving axe, the Svante Djarv Little Viking axe, for a couple of months now.I really like my Little Viking. ![]() Near the end of drying I had to mitigate some splitting with butterfly keys (a.k.a. ![]() At first it literally sweats and then slows down over time. One has to do that by slowly opening a bigger and bigger aperture in the plastic bag the bowl is stored in. In truth the past few months have been mostly waiting for the wood to dry and stabilize. ![]()
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